When It Buddha's It Pours

Today was Buddha's birthday - a holiday of significance in this part of the world. So significant in fact that it rained all day. Needless to say, Jasmine and I spent most of our time tucked in on the couch watching Northern Exposure...so it wasn't an entire waste (NE = importance). There's not too much to report as far as the past 24 hours are concerned, however, a few of us made it to the Lotus Lantern Festival on Sunday, which is held to commemorate the birth of Buddha. 'Twas a spectacular sight to behold. I was smitten by the sheer size of it all - I'm guessing millions of people attended. I love crowds, and even more so when everyone is carrying a lantern! It's poetry really... We strolled Insadong (an eclectic neighborhood of shops and tea houses), visited a temple where thousands of paper lanterns were hung and strung ever-so precariously (a wonderful yet seemingly cliché photo-op), and watched the lantern parade from a decidedly uncomfortable vantage on a blocked off four-lane road. Overall, Sunday was an excellently chill evening, as was today...I thought I'd share:

...is another man's treasure

Where's Melvil Dewey when you need him?

Entrance to the temple...

I regret having not returned later in the evening while they were all lit...

We were given this by another random group astounded by the presence of waguks (foriegners).

A troop of Sri Lankan musicians on their way to the fountainhead of the parade...

Buddhaaa!

I was imagining what it would have actually been like to be in combat with one of those things...

There's no doubt - dragons are bad-ass...

"It is better to travel well than to arrive." -The Birthday Boy-

Sunday

To see the summer sky...

To dream of far away...(Kyobo book-store)


To slumber...goodnight.

Hold the Line

Many have asked, and I shall deliver...

If you'd like to send a postcard, letter, correspondence, or what have you...send it to:

502 Sinsa Villa
561-22 Sinsa-dong
Kangnam-gu
Seoul, South Korea 135-889

Be it a carepackage - he does enjoy his impossible-to-find oatmeal, excellent reads, and tactful bauble - it's safer to send it to:

c/o Sullivan School
543-4 Sinsa-dong
Kangnam-gu
Seoul, South Korea 135-889

If instead you prefer the unwritten, I'll first extend the glorious suggestion of getting a Skype account ( www.skype.com / downloadskype ) Skype is a phone/chat program that allows us to talk just as if we were on the phone, all free-of-charge. No international phone-card needed...contemporary interconnectedness, isn't it great?!

My Skype screen name: evinceinfinity

Should you choose to neglect modernity, you can reach me at (just a friendly reminder...there's a 14-15 hour time difference between here and Central Standard):

011-82-2-3442-0814 (house phone)
011-82-10-7222-2201 (cell)

I would love to hear from any and all of you. Make haste slowly =)

Adam

Children's Day

Education is a social process; education is growth; education is not a preparation for life but is life itself. - John Dewey -

I was reconsidering any efforts I've put forth toward this blog, and I recognized with sadness that I have yet to share with you the joy I receive from the true purpose of my time here: teaching!! As I have recently expressed to my Aunt Pat and Uncle Jim (hailing from the cozy little town of Mosinee, WI...a shout out to home), I feel as though I've surpassed boundaries here. I was sure, after meeting such a notoriously "energetic" class from last year, that I would be spending at least a few more months living in a state of utter chaotic stress. Ladies and gentlemen, I am proud to announce that "Mr. Adam Teacher" has tamed a wild bunch from the Land of Punch Kick Slap Snot & Slobber! As I was fading down the hallway for lunch yesterday, I was lambasted by four of my students who insisted they tell me they love me (both in English and Korean) and then kiss me on the cheek before I take my leave =) I'm loved, and I LOVE that feeling. I'm finally firmly experiencing what so many teachers have told me would be the reason why educators continue to return every year. It's not the pay, it's not the benefits, it's not the hours...it's the passion for the students, and it's the love.

Today was the day before a Korean holiday celebrating children; fittingly "Children's Day." We had tons of fun with face-painting, gifts, and balloon animals. I wanted to share some pictures with all of you.

Jin's shirt says Snoopy...I painted a rather fair Snoopy on his cheek right there. Yeah, we're talkin' skills!

The blue car on Timmy's face was more of a car-crash...

And then there was pizza,

and filthy happiness!

What's a party without big dumb lookin' balloons, ha ha...

Unfortunately, after glorious organizational disarray all day long, we're all a bit done and done...as per cameras are concerned.

The week before was strawberry milkshakes.

Take a moment to distinctly remember childhood today, and thank this universe for those unbelievable smiling faces that brighten our sometimes dull-adult existences!

Fear the Rush-hour

I almost forgot to mention it... The inevitable has happened. I've officially been hit by chaotic Korean traffic. As a few of us were paused talking on the side of the road during our much appreciated lunch break, a van sped by with the usual lack of intentions to slow down for pedestrians and inadvertently struck my arm with his side mirror...quite earnestly I might add. It hurt! On his behalf, he did stop after noticing in order to bow apologetically to me.

Ha ha! It was bound to happen sometime, I'm just glad it wasn't a deer in headlights moment ending with me in the hospital.

Cheerio

El idioma es muy importante.

I dreamt in Haiku last night. I can't say whether they were legitimate Haiku poems or not - 5,7,5 - but it sure felt as though... Has a seemingly brilliant idea ever escorted you through your dreaming state ("filled with jooy and woonder" :), but in the morning you are sadly awoken to the sheer stupidity of its reality? An "I could make millions with this idea" moment, that is shattered after rising... Last night may have been a case of false-genius. I have wisps of poetic remnants running the gamut of my brain this afternoon, but none of them will materialize nor make any structural Haiku-sense ... ("Haiku-sense", that should be a virtue or something. "Is he worthy? I can see that he shows humility...but does he have Haiku-sense? No? Throw him to the lions!!")

It's an amazing Saturday, 66 degrees and sunny - spring is everywhere, and I'm questioning why I remain inside. After our final beginners level A Korean class last evening (we're now privileged enough to take level B on Monday nights rather than Friday - they know we're serious now!!), Jasmine and I strolled through a photography/haiku poetry exhibit in the Korean Cultural Building near city hall. Dag Hammarskjold from Sweden was the Secretary-General of the United Nations from 1953-1961, was awarded the 1961 Nobel Peace Prize, and was also a dedicated photographer and haiku poet. His work was on display for our enjoyment (each poem accompanied a photograph). I'd just like to share a bit of his poetry, as they were captivating enough to invade my r.e.m.

Translated from Swedish to English:

Seventeen syllables
opened the door
to memory and its meaning.

Orient of pilgrimage years
by the dark stream
under the lindens.

When the gods play
they seek a string
untouched by men.

This accidental
meeting of possibilities
calls itself I.

I really liked the last one. It's rightful photograph was one of a black and white seascape that confronted waterlilies floating on an inland pond trapped in weathered rock.

...has Jasmine elicited barrel-laughs with her Fan-Death!!! blog? I hope so, and if you're naive to that which I speak of, follow the link to her site and read forth. It'll make your day. I'll follow up soon with adventures from Sorak Mountain last weekend. It's time that I meet a few friends in Dongdaemun, and really large outdoor market where you can find damn near anything apparently. I'll let you know how it goes...

Hardfunk Dancemaster

Ahh...My Instrument of Connection

Where to begin...? I went MIA there for a while - I assure you I've not defected, although I can't entirely promise you that I had nothing to do with North Korea's inaction in shutting down nuclear reactors as of late :) Foreigners seem to be quite disliked up yonder...

This will be an update, pure and simple. My feeling is that if I try to express all of my wandering thoughts at once this will be nothing but a jumbled mess, and fail to meet your needs as a humble public. So here it is, simplicity a la Adam:

The last few weekends have been nothing short of outstanding. I spent my first deposited amongst an unfathomable sea of technology in what is aptly named Techno-Mart. Jasmine and another fellow teacher, Trena, were both in need of cell-phones, so we were kindly shown the nuts and bolts of the mecca to artificial intelligence through a native friend, Duskim. Techno-Mart is a monument to a ridiculous side of consumerism, containing nine floors of anything technologically related you can think of. (Each floor is the size of a small shopping-mall...) "Overwhelmed" doesn't do justice. That same Saturday afternoon we ventured to a place called the "63 Building," the hub of commerce in Seoul. There we took in an IMAX film (The Mystery of the Nile was excellent...), visited an underground bi-level aquarium (which managed only to depress me because of the atrocity of the occupants living environs...so very small, heartbreaking really), and also took a gander at the city-scape on the 63rd floor. To top it off, we gorged ourselves with Papa John's pizza, a seemingly large delicacy on that particular day.



The weekend after that I was finally able to experience Bukhansan National Park. Mike (another co-teacher) and I made our way up Paekundae Peak, encountering many hermitages and remembrances of ancient Korean heritage along the way. It was exactly what I needed, as I had been thoroughly missing the out-of-doors. Paekundae is a treacherous climb - definitely not for the faint of heart - but the amazing thing was that there were 70-year-old men and women, girls in high-heels (maybe even men for all I know...), and children as young as five ascending these heights! Koreans are mysteriously extraordinary sometimes... I offer you a smattering of video links, if ever you have the time:

Paekundae Peak (ha-na)
Paekundae Peak (tul)
Paekundae Peak (set)
Paekundae Peak (net)
Paekundae Peak (ta-sot)

There may be more demanding and exciting summits to reach in Korea but I couldn't have been more impressed. With the air lazy and mild and the trees fetchingly speckled with sunlight and birdsong, I was again at peace. Even though the subway spat me out onto the cement welcome mat of a bar in Hongdae later that evening, such is the contrast of timber and civilization :)





...and on to the contemporary my dear Watson. I felt very, as Rob put it, "pampered" this weekend. A newly discovered friend of mine, Heatherann, will be leaving country on Thursday in order to pursue officer's training. She's a journalist in the army, and is beautiful people I tell you - beautiful people. She has an intoxicating spirit that won't quit, and thus it was that her friends threw her a going away party. Lucky for us, one of Heatherann's good friends is the assistant secretary to the Ambassador of Ireland to South Korea. They have an "agreeable" place overlooking the Han River and much of Seoul. We spent the night drinking wine and playing charades!


The next evening a friend, who I was fortunate enough to have met through Pete Colclasure (back when I lived in Madison), was staying in Seoul for the weekend because of a medical conference hosted at the W Hotel. Supposedly the W is the best of the best, according to a friend, and I wouldn't say that's too far off. Jasmine and I met with and enjoyed dinner with Rob at one of the various restaurants within. Let's just say it was the best meal I've had since I arrived in Korea. Thank you again Rob, you're very gracious.

Well! Other than that, I've not much to tell... That's a bold-faced lie, however, I haven't the time nor strength to continue thinking. "We are such stuff as dreams are made on and our little life is rounded with asleep."

If I think of anything while snoozing, say...philosophers, spiritual masters, gurus, shamans, gypsy circus girls, or wild-talking tramps in the street that I've encountered during my travels...I'll be sure to wake up stat.

Nightfall

Post-Script (for you sister :) I've started Hangul (Korean) classes. I can currently handle myself in any restaurant/bar (a must...), and know the consonants and vowels fairly well. If I can pick this up...man!!

I'm Alive!

I've been neglectful, and I apologize. An online journal is a difficult thing when you as well keep a smattering of accompanying personal logs. This is not to mention even, the attempts to stay in contact with everyone. It's tough, I'm not going to lie. Soon...and I wholeheartedly mean that...soon. Unfortunately I cannot update this evening, for I will be observed teaching by parents tomorrow morning, so I must prepare myself with a good night's sleep. I will offer you this - a photograph taken from an excursion this weekend (just know that anticipation can be a wonderful thing :)

The Amazing Race

I'm not feeling the least inspired tonight, as I've been sick for the past couple days, but I must sally forth despite upset. Upon my arrival in Korea, which just so happens to be exactly 30 days ago, a very likable and scholarly man (David) - who just so happens to be married to my boss - forewarned us of the perpetual cold and flu-like symptoms we'd experience due to environmental adjustment. Heretofore illness hasn't reared its ugly head...that is until now. My head is so congested I have difficulty hearing, and the phlegm is a deplorable sight. I'm not trying to evoke any sympathy from you, I'm simply attaching a disclaimer to my blog ;)

Sullivan School. Sullivan School, Sullivan School, Sullivan School... The hogwon where I spend most of my waking state has been an eye-opener as of late. (You might catch a pang of negativity here, but know first that I do appreciate the work that I'm doing.) Just today I discovered, slightly hinged on conjecture, that my students have been given twice the workload compared to that of last years Dolphin class. After speaking with Marie (my boss), she has explained that the language curriculum currently in place is scheduled to be completed in six months time, whereas it would normally take one year according to developmentally appropriate practice. Keep in mind that these kids are 5 years old! If I were to complete all curricula handed me, it would leave my students absolutely no time for spontaneous interaction, free time, or play. In my mind that's unequivocally ludicrous. Regardless, the issue that I'm having the most difficulty approaching is how unaffected parents can be. All they seem to care about is homework, and lots of it... With regard to focus on homework and grades, yesterday I completed report cards for kindergarten. Report cards, in the first three weeks...for kindergarten! I'll stop ranting, but ponder that if you will. Private English schools in Korea are in a category all their own...

Very much on a lighter note, this last weekend we participated in an event that I discovered on AdventureKorea.com called the "Amazing Race." It was a competition planned by an animated girl named Jihee, a native South Korean, who wanted to organize something fun and exciting that would also benefit charitable causes throughout the world. There were 15 teams of four that entered the "Amazing Race," and each paid 20,000 Won (the equivalent of about $20 US). Not too shabby for an excellent day of sport and play, along with altruistic contribution. Maybe Jasmine posted more about other teams, but I'll pony up only with the details surrounding ours. Jasmine, Trena, Morgan and myself chose a somewhat campy name: Team I (Heart) Lamp. Lame, maybe...but entertaining to the lot of us. Ironically, one of our team members hasn't even seen the movie. That might even make it more lame, and I'm down with that, ha! :) With this slogan shall I run for president one day..."Adam Van Straten - no one's ever been more down with lame!" Aand moving forward once again... I'm sure most of you are familiar with The Amazing Race tv show in the States, so I'll spare you any kind of long explanation. The gist of it was, we were given clues telling us where to go. Along the way there were trivia questions and side-missions that could be completed for extra points at the end. Team Lamp succeeded at finishing in 9th I believe. Unfortunately, because it was a race (not that we were really moving all that fast, but still...), it was difficult to remember the names of many of the places we visited. However, we will visit them yet again...especially the fish market, which was spectacular. I've never seen so much fresh seafood! You'll also notice the Cheonggyecheon River in one of the pictures, where I miserably attempted a hacky-sack mission :) It may not seem like much, but amazingly, this river has only recently been in plain view. About four decades ago it was paved over due to South Korea's "determination to catch up economically." Just last year, it was uncovered and reclaimed by the city in an effort to focus more on culture and the environment. Good stuff!!



As far as other aspects of Korea are concerned, and to be perfectly mundane, the weather is fairly nice. Spring has finally signed in. Trees and flowers are beginning to bloom, and I can occasionally smell the beautiful bouquet of rebirth amidst all the smog. I'm now just anxiously awaiting the day when I can take a weekend trip into the mountains to see the woods in full chlorophyll-choked glory.

I just recently purchased a cell-phone...or should I say, it was purchased for me. (Thank you Duskim!) My new number is 010-7222-2201 ...and the international dialing code may still apply with this (011-82 ...before the number) If ever you want to call, just pick up a cheap international calling card, and dial away. I'll most likely answer, if I'm not in the middle of a lesson that is.

OK, love you guys, goodnight!

Seoul Shamrock

No reminder is needed for many of you, as I'm sure you're urine was green from all the shamrock suds you consumed, but yesterday was St. Patrick's Day...even in Seoul. In fact, Seoul hosts a fairly large celebration for the holiday in Marronnier Park in Hyehwa. We consummated such an event the same as most around the world - with good food and beer (and a little too much soju, a deceivingly potent alcohol in Korea, almost tasteless - I'll have to send some home). There was even a Korean traditional Irish band with some good jiggin' to boot!! Marronnier was filled with foreigners of every shape, size, and color (...makes them sound akin to candy...it was pretty sweet, ha ha lame). However, and this may sound strange, it's a little unnerving to have seen so many white people again. It almost makes you feel self-conscious. There's comfort in that I think. It lets me know I've grown accustomed to life in Seoul. I no longer look out my window and feel estranged. It is home.

I will write more tomorrow, as I've more time this week. It was just a matter of letting things settle down at the beginning of the new school year. Time to dream up some good transition techniques (my kids are the most energetic bunch I think I've ever encountered). Minus the hitting and kicking, they're so fun! Happy St. Pat's! Shamrock it up!!

Bukhansan

I've much to say, but zero time during this particular AM for such enjoyment. I can offer this much until later: I stepped from my bedroom onto what appears to be our invariably disused atrium (all will change with warmer months...plants I say, plants!!). I peered down to the street below, and in the center of road stood an older guy with a pack and a curiously bewildered look, as if he had just woken from a trance and found himself unaccountably in this place. It was a very surreal moment, and I couldn't but help thinking that this may be a vision of me sometime in the near future. We've only begun to explore the humble vastness of this country, and I predict we will find ourselves in precariously sublime situations of confusion; I look forward to it... My eyes wandered upward, eventually coming to rest on an eminence that is only visible certain mornings, given the forecast of smoggy obscurity. Baekundae is the highest point in Bukhansan National Park in Seoul. It's just 2,744 feet to the top, but, surrounded as it is by much smaller hills, it looks considerably bigger. It has in any case a certain imposing majesty that beckons.

On a lighter note, here is some video footage that I uploaded onto YouTube last night of our Sunday meal yesterday, enjoy :

Sunday Splurge
Sunday Splurge 2

Wipe the Slate Clean

I suppose it's about time I contribute to the unyielding guilt that is a blog. Regret consumes me each time I forgo the opportunity to update all of you, but I've been so busy lately! With the beginning of the new school year - 13 tireless 5 year-olds to watch over - an incessantly dirty apartment, the exploration of an endless city, the gym, and finally...yet seldom happened upon, time to myself in order to ponder the entirety of this great experience. It should get easier after this hellish week of orientation... No time, no time...

I mentioned a gym. South Korea is a country dead-set on the importance of appearance. It's everything (citizens are allowed tax breaks for having had plastic surgery!!). None-the-less, Jasmine, Trena (another teacher at Sullivan) and I have all joined California Fitness, an out-of-this-world workout facility. To give you an idea...five levels - each the size of a normal gym - hundreds of people any time of the day, catalytic club music, escalators, stores and salons, and the most amazing locker room I've ever seen. I'll include a picture that I captured to further your musing...

Aside from narcissist land, I'm becoming more and more comfortable living in such a large metropolis. We've discovered many interesting foods, some that I really really like... Gweggie-galby (spelled phonetically for myself and you) is a traditional Korean dish that is served to your table as fresh as imaginable. A grill is provided you, and you thus cook marinated meat and fresh vegetables over the heat, do-it-yourself style. I can already tell that this approach to dining will be something that I miss when I return to the west. On a related note, if any of you enjoy california-rolls or sushi of all kinds, we've discovered what are referred to as "kim-bpop" (the b and p combined when you say it..."bpop" meaning rice) restaurants, where you can get the equivalent of ten dollars worth of sushi for about two! Anyway, the food is great, great, great...and if ever I'm in the mood for western food, I can find about a million places for that as well. Seoul's got the haps! (Today, one of my 6 year-old after school kids asked me "what be the sitch yo?"...I couldn't help but laugh :)

Today was officially my first day with my kindergartners. We had about an hour with the kids, and then herded them down to a commons area where we sang songs and spoke to parents for a first-day-orientation. Good times...long day. My boss, Marie Chung, has just recently added a new sector of classrooms to her school, and I am the proud recipient of the newly finalized Dolphin room. I teach 6 year-olds (Korean age, so five in the States) who have already been at Sullivan for a year. So, returnees. Also, because of my rooms infancy, I've virtually nothing to work with. At the same time, working with a clean slate is always capital. Those of us with new classrooms can order anything we need (budget doesn't matter, as far as I've been told). I can make that room anything I damn well please...yes, Marie gives us that much freedom. Like I said, I think I'm really very lucky to have found this job.

Well, goodnight for tonight...I've dreams to dream, plans to plan, minds to...min...mold, that's it.

Satisfaction Guaranteed

Today was a national holiday in South Korea...more specifically "Independence Movement Day." On March 1st, 1919 independence fighters announced Korea's declaration of independence from Japanese colonialism, which unfortunately resulted in the deaths of thousands of unarmed protesters. On a happier note, this meant that schools were closed, and that yours truly had a day off. What better to do on one's day off you ask...why, lug 60 lb. suitcases up five flights of stairs of course!

Today we moved into our home away from home, and I honestly couldn't ask for more. Our apartment is part of a building that's actually considered a villa, by Seoul standards. I'm not sure if I mentioned this, but Sinsa-dong (the province where I live and work - "dong" meaning neighborhood...loosely) is the most affluent portion of Seoul. Affluence = nice apartment for Adam and Jasmine, apparently. To be honest, I think we lucked out. We have some pretty great views from a 5th floor apartment, it's extremely spacious (comparatively), and the previous occupants left us damn near everything that we'll possibly need over the next year. We're talking and iron, ironing board, toaster, towels, sheets, cleaning supplies (which were utilized diligently this afternoon and evening), cooking oils, spices, food stuffs, pharmaceuticals, bathroom supplies, etc...

I lie in bed now, periodically glancing at the midnight cityscape, outside one of many windows enclosing our atrium. Good stuff I tell ya, good stuff. I've had a grin on my face most of the day :) Tomorrow is my first day of teaching my after-school classes. I'm awesomely excited for that, but the paramount moment doesn't arrive until Monday, when I'm unleashed upon my wicked 6- year-olds!! This is going to be a blast!

Until next time... "If you love what you are doing, you will be successful."